I'm happy to see Obikà, the mozzarella bar, is opening in New York; I just wish they'd open one here in Chicago. My wife and I visited the one in Rome in 2005 just by chance; it was a rainy evening and we both love fresh mozzarella, so we gave it a try, and it ended up being one of the highlights of our week there. We were astounded by the variation between the different mozzarellas we tried there, in texture, flavor, creaminess. Also the service was very good, and I think we got special attention because the place was nearly empty (I'm not sure if this was because it had recently opened, it was a rainy night, or we were just there a little early for dinner).
By the way, the article mentions scamorza, a smoked cheese similar to mozzarella that will only make the New York menu occasionally. We didn't try this when we were at Obikà, but I've had it elsewhere in Italy, and I believe my sister even cooks with it. Because it holds together better when heated than some other cheeses and has a strong smoky flavor, it makes a nice meat alternative.
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